A perfect day

Every single day of my trip so far has been a gift for which I’m grateful, but yesterday was special–one of those days I’ll remember long after I’m home from this adventure.

There are lovely little spaces all over the property to sit and relax, read a book, or just listen to the frogs. If you ever find yourself in this part of Virginia, stay here. You won’t be sorry.

I’m staying at a wonderful bed and breakfast in New Church, Virginia–Garden and Sea Inn–owned by a lovely German couple named Thomas and Dorothea. As I was the only guest who ate breakfast late (being lazy has its rewards!), I was able to have a lengthy conversation with them about the Inn, the area, and get some great tips from them on what to see and do. I learned that they’ve owned this place since 2008–they purchased just before the economy went to hell, unfortunately–and are from Stuttgart originally. Thomas and I shared road trip stories–I of my trip that is just beginning to unfold, and he of his seven-year endeavor to get from Germany to Greece on his motorcycle. “I kept getting caught up in what was then Yugoslavia (now Croatia),” he explained. “It’s the most beautiful country on the face of the earth! I’d run out of time and have to head back to Germany.” The warm conversation perfectly complemented the incredible breakfast (a rolled egg dish with asparagus, ham and cheese, plus fresh fruit, bacon and amazing coffee).

Thomas and Doro also recommended a dinner place–they seemed pleased that I was enthralled, rather than repulsed, by their description of a local hole in the wall place that “isn’t exactly clean” but had the best fresh seafood around. “The only people there are usually locals, and people we’ve sent,” Thomas said. Music to my ears!

After an easy 20 minute drive, I was on Chincoteague Island, enjoying the refreshing sea breeze (nice to give the A/C a break) and the relaxed pace of life that matched my state of mind. I headed to the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, which is actually on Assateague Island. Home to the wild ponies made famous by Marguerite Henry‘s 1947 book, the island was a lovely place to wander, watch the birds, and just breathe in the salty air. Bliss!

Not sure I believe the 97% fat free claim, but it sure was delicious!

I could think of nothing more delightful after a morning of bird watching and sun than ice cream…so what if it was lunchtime? A stop at Mister Whippy for a banana split was a perfect treat! (and banana splits were $1 off, so it was a frugal choice : )

The highlight of my day, and surely a memory that will stand out for this entire trip, was a tour around Chincoteague and Assateague by a local state trooper turned boat captain. Daisey’s Dockside Nature Cruises takes six people out at a time, so there was no jockeying for the best views–we all had a front row seat. Captain Bill explained how the islands have evolved and expanded, as sea grass, then other plant life, takes root in sandbars that emerge from the shallow channel waters. He pointed out the various types of birds–the black-headed laughing gulls that are harbingers of flounder season, the great egret fishing on the shore–and followed a small pod of dolphins for quite a while (much to the delight of the young girl who was on the boat with her parents).

The moment I had been waiting for did not disappoint–we spotted a small group of wild ponies grazing on the shore. They were as magnificent as I had imagined; while I tried to pay attention to the Captain as he explained the annual pony round-up and swim across the channel for the pony auction (which funds the island’s volunteer fire department), I could not take my eyes off the animals who seemed to take no notice of us. I could go on and on, but I’ll just share a few photos…

Pure magic.

The perfect day was capped off by a trip to the aforementioned hole in the wall, The Crusty Crab. Being from Maine, I know that places like this–short on tasteful decor, perhaps, but filled with unpretentious locals and friendly proprietors who bus tables and greet guests–are the best places to get really fresh, simply prepared seafood. I was not disappointed. I had an incredible meal of broiled flounder and crab cakes, and some of the best cole slaw I’ve ever had (and I took home a slice of homemade coconut cake that was the perfect nightcap to this amazing day). I’m quite sure I fell asleep with a childish, ear to ear grin.

Chincoteague Island was on my very first attempt at a route map for this trip–and a place I nearly skipped over, thinking it was silly to be so fixated on a place to which I was only tied by a very hazy memory of a favorite book from my childhood. A few days ago, my heart told me to come here anyway. The heart wins, again.